Front Speaker Installation
Well, now it's time to get to the speaker installation. Overwhelmed yet? It's really not
that big of a deal, especially since I've got all these nice pictures here to show you
what to expect. Repeat these steps for each front door.
Door Panel Removal - Steps
- Remove screw from inside forward vent flap (very important you do this first to prevent
cracking the vent)
- Remove screw behind door handle (pop off cover plug first)
- Remove window switch (pry out with micro screwdriver, pull out and disconnect wire
connectors)
- Remove lamp unit from bottom of door and disconnect wiring. Pry out with micro
screwdriver from the front-most edge.
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- The entire lower portion of the door panel is fastened with plastic push in clips around
its perimeter. Use a long flat screwdriver (or similar) to pry the panel away from the
door at each clip point. Start at the outside upper edge just above and below the opening
for the lock (striker). Look for the next clip point and pry as close as you can to it. Be
careful at the lower outside area - the clips are mounted on the rear of the plastic
storage box (not on the panel). You have to push the screwdriver in all the way to the box
and pry on it as opposed to prying on the edge of the panel - otherwise you can end up
prying the panel off the storage box.
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- With the lower panel clips all free, pull out slightly on the arm rest handle and then
twist and slip the door handle unit back through the opening.
- Now pull the entire door panel slightly outward at the bottom and then lift upward - may
take some wrestling to free it at the connectors by the window. Before removing the door
panel reach in and disconnect the midrange speaker wiring connector.
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Woofer Replacement
- Carefully pull the foam surround away from the speaker.
- Using a small allen wrench, remove the (4) retaining screws - one at each corner.
- Disconnect the (4) wires from the woofer and remove the driver.
- NOTE: The woofers in the doors are dual voice-coil woofers. One coil is used for the
stereo system, the other is for the cellular phone. DO NOT TWIST THESE WIRES TOGETHER AND
USE BOTH PAIRS. I know this because that's what I tried and got hosed. If you wire it this
way you'll get mono cross-talk between your left and right channels and the impedance
rating for your amp will be all wacked out of joint - not a good thing. I believe the
correct pair to use is the shorter one, but double check it using your DVM. I removed the
crappy poly fill and replaced it with the good stuff I bought for my sub. Not sure it
makes a difference, but seemed like a good idea at the time.
- Use the supplied weather stipping and affix it to the back of the new woofer frame
before mounting. This will insure an air-tight seal. Be sure to route the wiring for the
woofer down in the bottom of the sound-box. The new woofer magnet is deep and the driver
will not seat correctly if the wiring is behind the magnet.
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- Use the short screws for remounting the woofer in the sound-box. The holes will not line
up, but that's ok. Be sure not to over tighten the mounting screws (if you have the 335is
speakers) because you will crack the surround. It's a tight fit, so be sure the connectors
do not get disconnected while you're wrestling with it.
- Reattach the foam ring to the new woofer.
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Tweeter Replacement
- Remove the retaining bolt from the tweeter assembly.
- Pull the plastic moulding out and remove the tweeter. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE
GRILL.
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- Cut the wires from the factory tweeter. Leave enough wire on the old tweeter in case you
want to reinstall it at a later date.
- Splice the new tweeter's connections to the remaining piece with the connector on it. I
don't remember which lead is positive, so test this with your DVM.
- Remove the foam from inside the tweeter cavity.
- Cut two small slits in this foam and fit the new tweeter inside the hole.
- Replace the foam/tweeter assembly and put the moulding back in place. You will not be
able to bolt the new tweeter in. It's sufficient to just let the foam hold it there.
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Reassembling The Door
Some things you'll need to know first.
- Get someone to help you do this. It's much easier if one person holds the panel while
the other feeds the wiring and aligns the clips for reinstallation.
- Visit your local BMW dealer and buy some extra clips. I broke a few of mine during
removal. They're pricey little buggers, but you'll probably need a few. They're the yellow
ones.
- There is a plastic clip that fits into the metal channel behind the arm rest. That clip
must be in place as you remount the door - it slides over that metal prong on the door. Be
careful that clip does not drop out.
- Double check that the cable from the door handle is fully within it's plastic slot. If
it slips out when you are pulling the unit back through the door you will find there is
some slack in the handle - once you have it all back together - then you have to pull it
off again.
- Jim recommends putting some silicone lubricant on all the contact points, including
around the outside of the door panel - keeps away the creaks and squeaks. He also used
some silicone caulking to seal up any gaps in that plastic noise/weather panel.
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Steps
- Thread wires back into location for window switch, midrange speaker and lamp before you
push the door panel on
- Push lock button down and fit door panel over button
- Push top panel back into clips at window - just thump them to lock into position.
- Make sure you pull the wire for the window switch all the way out of the handle -
otherwise it might get caught across the front of the woofer.
- Now press the lower part of the door into position - onto that metal pin behind the arm
rest.
- Checking that each clip is over it's corresponding hole just push each clip into place
around the door edge. You'll hear a definite snap sound when they're in place.
- Check your door handle to make sure it operates properly.
- Put the screws, switch and light back into place and that's it.
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